Onam: Memories on a banana leaf

Onam, the annual harvest and cultural festival, is all about celebration. The 10-day festival revolves around wearing fine kasavu sarees, meeting family and friends, and relishing the sadya (feast) that has over 26 vegetarian dishes. 

But the excitement around the festival is no longer limited to the natives from Kerala—other communities too partake in the celebration. Today, restaurants, hotels, and caterers across India are offering extravagant meals to celebrate Onam, allowing people from diverse cultures to experience the elaborate sadya. 

From pappadam to upperi (banana chips), pachadi (lightly cooked vegetable curry) to olan (white pumpkin curry), and thoran (dry dish with cabbage, beans, jackfruit and other veggies), among others—the sadya encompasses all this and more. 

However, the secret ingredient in this grand feast is ‘nostalgia’. Most chefs whipping up this meal today tap into the power of their childhood memories to create dishes as close to the traditional fare their mothers, grandmothers, or relatives cooked.

YS Life asked five chefs to share their fondest memories of the festival, with an emphasis on an Onam staple they continue to love. 

Chef Selvansolomon

Dakshin, Sheraton New Delhi

For Delhi-based Chef Selvansolomon, Onam has always been about home-cooked meals prepared by his mother. In his early years, fresh harvests from neighbouring farms would come to his home, after which his mother would initiate the process of making several dishes. 

“I was a mischievous kid and would always be outdoors, either swimming in rivers or playing sports. When I would go back home, the fresh and warm fragrance of food would entice me,” he says. 

“The flavours of the Onam sadya—freshly served on a banana leaf—were magic. This memory is still so alive in my mind; I want to evoke the same emotion in my guests by serving the same dishes I grew up eating,” he adds.

Even today, Onam is all about togetherness and bonding over traditional food for the chef. A dish he particularly loves is parippu pradhaman—made with moong dal, coconut milk, jaggery, and an extra dose of love!

“My mother would cook it for me, especially when I’d have a bad day. This sweet treat would lighten my mood and help me forget all my worries. It works even today,” he tells YS Life. 

Chef Velmurugan Paul Raj

CGH Earth Experience Hotels - Willingdon, Kochi

Like many, Onam has always been close to Chef Raj’s heart. Growing up, the excitement of welcoming Mahabali—the mythical king of Kerala—was palpable. It wasn't just another festival, but a time when family and tradition intermingled like no other. 

“In my childhood home, the kitchen was the heart of the Onam festivities. The elderly men and women in the family ran the show. Each had a role to play—from checking whether the rice was cooked perfectly to keeping a careful eye on the sambar and rasam bubbling on the stove,” he recalls. 

Although Chef Raj has been dishing up the sadya for years, the experience continues to captivate him. The sheer variety of vegetarian dishes part of this feast—each with its unique flavour and texture—excites him. 

While most people associate sadya with vegetarian fare, the chef educates us that the northern districts of Kerala—Kasaragod, Kannur, Wayanad, Kozhikode, and Malappuram—prepare a non-vegetarian sadya. 

This twist, according to him, reflects the region's culture, where meat dishes are enjoyed alongside traditional vegetarian delicacies. 

However, there's something about payasam that Chef Raj can't get enough of! “Traditionally, we make palada pradhaman (made from reduced milk), semiya payasam (milk and vermicelli), karikku payasam (with tender coconut), and parippu payasam, among others,” he shares. 

Nonetheless, Chef Raj is biased towards the ada pradhaman, also termed the ‘dessert of the royalty’. “Specially dried and crushed flat rice flakes are simmered gently with molasses, coconut milk, and cardamom. It has an unmatched taste,” he reiterates. 

Chef Agnibh Mudi

True Palate Hospitality - one8 Commune Bengaluru

Although he hasn't extensively celebrated Onam like the others, Chef Mudi remembers when he first had sadya at a friend's home. It was something that's etched in his mind, he recalls. 

“It was a grand feast. I cherish those home-cooked meals and recipes made with such love by my friend's mother. Among the many dishes, poriyal (a vegetable dish) continues to be my favourite. I must also mention the variety of chutneys and pachadi she had served with the entire meal; it bowled me over,” he shares. 

Avial is another dish he enjoyed having, the taste of which continues to linger in his palate. “It's a dish I also like making at home. I have tried a few variations, including adding some beetroot puree to give a bright pink colour to the dish. The ingredient also adds a tinge of sweetness, complementing the creamy coconut base gravy,” says Chef Mudi. 

Chef Rajesh Roy

Quattro, The Leela Bhartiya City Bengaluru

As a child, Chef Roy had seen his home transform into a hub of activity every Onam. His mother and grandmother would prepare traditional sweets and savoury dishes such as payasam (rice pudding), unniyappam (sweet fritters), and achappam (rose cookies)—whose aroma still lingers in Chef Roy’s memory even now! 

“One of my fondest memories associated with Onam was the making of the pookalam, a floral arrangement made with fresh flowers. Every year, we would collect various coloured petals and design intricate patterns on the floor of our home,” he reminisces. 

Food was an integral part of the celebration, as with any household, and Chef Roy would look forward to it with great anticipation. 

“The sight of the banana leaf laden with dishes like sambar, avial, thoran, and pachadi was always mesmerising. Eating with my hands and savouring the flavours was an experience that made Onam truly special.”

Chef Bala Subramaniam

South of Vindhyas, The Orchid Hotel Mumbai

The most exciting part of any celebration has to be the variety of food with a side of banter with loved ones. This was what Chef Subramaniam remembers from the time he was young. His mother and grandmother would take centre stage, preparing a feast of traditional dishes that everyone would relish together. 

“The highlight of these gatherings was always the shared meal on the banana leaf, where every age group—from children to grandparents—would join in the feast,” he shares. 

Among the many cherished dishes, athirasam stood out as the most awaited and beloved dessert, making every Onam celebration truly memorable. 

“It is made with rice, powdered jaggery, crushed cardamom, sesame seeds, ghee, and some oil for deep frying. These are crispy on the outside but soft on the inside. They are best paired with tea,” he suggests.  

Tell us what’s your fondest memory of Onam sadya!

(The copy was updated to edit an image caption)