NOE’s classic-meets-contemporary menu is a diner’s delight

It's hard to differentiate most restaurants today in Delhi-NCR. An inviting ambience, a failsafe menu, and a mix of cocktails seem to be a template. That is probably why NOE—backed by Sandeep Bishnoi, Co-founder of Perch Wine and Coffee Bar and Hoots’, is a breath of fresh air. 

Located in Hotel Diplomat, NOE draws you with its swathes of green and colonial vibe—a welcome departure from outlets in malls and food hubs. Besides its 30-cover indoor space, there's also al fresco seating for 60 people that Delhi’s diners will most likely covet to soak in the winter sun. 

It's not just the design and décor that's a talking point. The menu, which may seem rather simple at first glance, is far from it. Thanks to the genius of Chef Dhruv Nijhawan, who is known for his stints at People of Tomorrow and Dholkar in Ladakh. 

True to his style, the food served at NOE has a variety of vegetarian dishes, albeit in a creative format. 

“NOE offers a blend of old-world elegance and modern flair, catering to a diverse clientele while ensuring inclusivity and sophistication,” Nijhawan tells YS Life. 

Complementing it is the restaurant's cocktail programme—centred around elevating the highball cocktail experience using high-quality spirits and handcrafted sodas, tonics, and in-house juices. 

“The ingredients play a dominant role, with an emphasis on natural and creative flavours, including classic citrus blends, adventurous herb and spice infusions, and sophisticated, complex mixers that enhance the overall drinking experience,” adds Nijhawan. 

YS Life explores the menu to know the hype behind the concept. 

Flavour-forward meals 

While the menu has a ton of options for lunch and dinner, one can also choose from an all-day dining menu. Our meal began with Pear and Sumac, a sweet and savoury salad that paired under-ripe pears with sumac, roasted hazelnuts (for the much-needed crunch), and rehydrated raisins, all tossed together with rocket leaves.

It is finished with Rockford and Brunost cheeses from Eleftheria for a layer of creaminess (but light enough).

Next up was Prawn and Carrot, a pairing that's unheard of. Prawns are slow-roasted in noisette butter, served with black garlic mayo, marinated kundru, and a roasted garlic bulb with a hint of lemon. What struck us the most was the use of indigenous ingredients that are at par with what's available globally. Nijhawan’s mastery in creating ‘elevated comfort food’ shines here. 

Another winner for us was Leek and Tamari. Generally, leek is a neglected vegetable that's barely found on restaurant menus but trust Nijhawan to explore the unexplored. 

What makes this dish so special? It has grilled koji-marinated leeks paired with a tangy tomato tamari sour cream, finished with burnt milk whey. When the chef tells you it takes inspiration from the memory of his mother making ghee khurchan and scraping out the caramelised parts, it all adds up. 

But to have an eclectic variety of vegetarian options on the menu would have been thought through. Nijhawan agrees, “It was a conscious decision to cater to the diverse dietary requirements of NOE's clientele. This inclusivity is central to NOE's identity, ensuring guests with different preferences, including vegan, gluten-free, or other dietary restrictions, feel welcome and accommodated.”

We were also tempted to try some non-vegetarian fare, eventually going ahead with Lobster and Bread. With crusty bread soaked in rich lobster bisque, topped with lobster roll slaw, Korean chilli, and Kewpie mayo—it was a revelation. Creamy yet light and with a burst of flavours, it is something we are going to come back for. 

The drinks 

The cocktail programme, spearheaded by Hoots’, raised our expectations because it has been featured thrice on Asia’s 50 Best Bars Top 100 list. But there were a few hits and misses. 

The Tea and Whiskey cocktail was the first order, and it was a beautiful marriage of two things we love. The balance of warm whiskey and floral tea was seamless, and it's probably going to be the go-to, especially this winter. 

Next up was Tamarind and Tequila. As a tequila fan, the idea was to enjoy the spirit, albeit an Indian touch. The tanginess of tamarind seemed like a perfect match, but it wasn't quite so in reality. The cocktail was rather sweet to our liking, and the sourness was missing. 

A few other cocktails seemed interesting—Plum and Wine (red wine, port, lemon cordial, and plum sparkling wine) and Melon and Sake (sake, vodka, melon cordial, and lemongrass). 

For those who like straight-up drinks, there's a fine selection of wines, whiskey, and other spirits.

What else? 

The restaurant has also added some other dishes to its ever-expanding menu. From Clam and Potato Chowder, Tuber and Basil, Tuna and Fish Mint to Asparagus and Walnut—there’s much to try, and we will head back soon! 

The dessert menu screams innovation. We tried the Biscoff and Chai, which had vanilla cardamom sponge cake with Biscoff mousse and masala chai whipped cream cheese, with a spiced ginger sable and Biscoff gelato. While it was inventive, cardamom’s flavour overpowered the dish. 

Nonetheless, the Berry and Lemon made up for it. With a clarified biscuit base underneath a seasonal berry compote, and finished with fresh clotted lemon cream, it was a zesty dessert that left the palate feeling refreshed. 

P.S.: Don’t forget to check out the speakeasy on the NOE premises!

Cost for two (including alcohol): Rs 5,000

Timings: 8 AM - 11.30 PM (The restaurant also has slots for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and all-day dining menus.)